1st-2nd of May 2017
1st of May
Before leaving we have asked a person in David's house to make us a reservation for us in a casa in Viñales for two nights which has been suggested to us by several people. Even if we have gave them some house we were willing to stay it clearly seemed they have booked us a house with somebody they have agreement with... "the family-cousin-friend" connection appeared for the first time. Just before we leave they gave us a card with the name of the house and the phone number and also a card for Trinidad.
The funny part: they didn't give us the price of the house... well at least we had the address :)
We left Havana with an old American car (the collective taxi) in the company of 2 more guys: one French guy and one Argentian girl. It took us 4h to reach the city. The driver was really nice and made a stop on a small hill just before we entered the town from where a magnificent view was offered. From there Viñales made me think of Yangshou in China with all the small green hills around. We reached the house of Rachel y Andrés (our host) which was a bit far of the downtown. The hosts were both really nice and friendly.
As soon as we dropped our luggage and as the it was the early afternoon, we decided to go for a horse ride. Andrés called a guy as soon as we said this... we asked them for the price but they said they didn't know... well with the experience, I guess, it was more about the commission they can get from our ride... anyway It is part of the game.
We went for the ride and we needed to bargain for the price... but before we leave we agreed on a maximum price we were ready to pay (20 pesos convertibles). Indeed, the guy seemed to be a seller: he started on 35 pesos per person for a 3h trip including a visit of the national parc, a cigare maker, a coffee maker and swimming in a small lake... well, he finally agreed at our price even if, i guess, it was a bit overpriced.
It was an awesome experience, for me it was the first time to ride a horse for such a long time. Really beautiful animals. As promised we started by the national park. The advantage of the horse is that you can take amazing routes clearly impossible to be taken by a car or a bike. The view was really beautiful however it is almost impossible to take a photo while riding except totally stop.
Everything went really good until a heavy rain fell down on us... I was clearly scared for my camera, my phone and wallet which were in bags which are not water proof. Soon later we ma aged to reach our first stop totally wet: the cigar maker.
It was a good stop as we could wait for the rain to stop, dry for a bit and also learn something new. The maker made us mojitos and gave us cigares to try. It was nice as he was adding honey on the end of the cigar which was making it even more light and nice to smoke. We also had a cigar making lesson which was clearly interesting. The maker made a cigar in less than 5min... when watching him, the making seemed really easy but for sure it needs much years to learn doing this.
Soon later the rain stopped so we left for our next stop: the coffee maker. Well here we had a really funny guy who made us try the coffee (the taste wasn't good though), explained us how it has been made and in the end made us try a homemade rum. The only rum in Cuba which is not made from Caña de Azucar but with a small local fruit (which I can't record anymore the name of).
We did an hour more ride in the nice valleys and went home quite tired.
Before leaving Rachel has asked us if we wanted a diner and we thought it could be nice to dine with the family. Indeed, a really nice diner was waiting for us with salad, a delicious chicken, rice and potatoes. I was a bit disappointed because I thought we will all eat together but maybe it is not culturally accepted.
Right after the diner they asked us what were our plans for the next day. At this moment we really wanted to go to Cayo Lavisa which is an island mentioned as awesome in the lonely planet guide. They nicely started to suggest us and persuading us to go to another island Cayo Jutia which was closer and Andrés was already calling a taxi for us... the situation was a bit "too much" for me because they have been using their kindness to make us book something we weren't sure we wanted... After this experience we decided not to extend our stay for a night more in the city of Viñales.
I took the guide and saw that there was a bus trip organized by the tourism office of the city going to Cayo Levisa. As Doria was really tired, with Julien we caught the moment to go for a drink in the center and check where the office is located.
While walking we realized that in all the city there were a lot of available rooms in the casas much more closer to the downtown and that it was not totally necessary to have a booking before reaching our next stop.
The life of the small towns in Cuba seem to turn around the main square where you can find wifi, Viñales wasn't an exception. We reached the downtown after 10-15min walking on streets where the public lights were almost not existing hopefully Julien's phone had almost a car lighting and we managed to walk easily.
We also found the tourism office and a friendly Cuban guy suggested us to go there around 7h in the morning to book.
We then enjoyed a nice daiquiri while sitting on the main square's banches and listening to the life music. We then came back home and went to bed. As I was the one who wakes up easily in the morning I decided to go to the office at 7h30 to book the trip and said to Julien and Doria to meet me at 8h30 at the square.
Before leaving we have asked a person in David's house to make us a reservation for us in a casa in Viñales for two nights which has been suggested to us by several people. Even if we have gave them some house we were willing to stay it clearly seemed they have booked us a house with somebody they have agreement with... "the family-cousin-friend" connection appeared for the first time. Just before we leave they gave us a card with the name of the house and the phone number and also a card for Trinidad.
The funny part: they didn't give us the price of the house... well at least we had the address :)
We left Havana with an old American car (the collective taxi) in the company of 2 more guys: one French guy and one Argentian girl. It took us 4h to reach the city. The driver was really nice and made a stop on a small hill just before we entered the town from where a magnificent view was offered. From there Viñales made me think of Yangshou in China with all the small green hills around. We reached the house of Rachel y Andrés (our host) which was a bit far of the downtown. The hosts were both really nice and friendly.
As soon as we dropped our luggage and as the it was the early afternoon, we decided to go for a horse ride. Andrés called a guy as soon as we said this... we asked them for the price but they said they didn't know... well with the experience, I guess, it was more about the commission they can get from our ride... anyway It is part of the game.
We went for the ride and we needed to bargain for the price... but before we leave we agreed on a maximum price we were ready to pay (20 pesos convertibles). Indeed, the guy seemed to be a seller: he started on 35 pesos per person for a 3h trip including a visit of the national parc, a cigare maker, a coffee maker and swimming in a small lake... well, he finally agreed at our price even if, i guess, it was a bit overpriced.
It was an awesome experience, for me it was the first time to ride a horse for such a long time. Really beautiful animals. As promised we started by the national park. The advantage of the horse is that you can take amazing routes clearly impossible to be taken by a car or a bike. The view was really beautiful however it is almost impossible to take a photo while riding except totally stop.
Everything went really good until a heavy rain fell down on us... I was clearly scared for my camera, my phone and wallet which were in bags which are not water proof. Soon later we ma aged to reach our first stop totally wet: the cigar maker.
It was a good stop as we could wait for the rain to stop, dry for a bit and also learn something new. The maker made us mojitos and gave us cigares to try. It was nice as he was adding honey on the end of the cigar which was making it even more light and nice to smoke. We also had a cigar making lesson which was clearly interesting. The maker made a cigar in less than 5min... when watching him, the making seemed really easy but for sure it needs much years to learn doing this.
Soon later the rain stopped so we left for our next stop: the coffee maker. Well here we had a really funny guy who made us try the coffee (the taste wasn't good though), explained us how it has been made and in the end made us try a homemade rum. The only rum in Cuba which is not made from Caña de Azucar but with a small local fruit (which I can't record anymore the name of).
We did an hour more ride in the nice valleys and went home quite tired.
Before leaving Rachel has asked us if we wanted a diner and we thought it could be nice to dine with the family. Indeed, a really nice diner was waiting for us with salad, a delicious chicken, rice and potatoes. I was a bit disappointed because I thought we will all eat together but maybe it is not culturally accepted.
Right after the diner they asked us what were our plans for the next day. At this moment we really wanted to go to Cayo Lavisa which is an island mentioned as awesome in the lonely planet guide. They nicely started to suggest us and persuading us to go to another island Cayo Jutia which was closer and Andrés was already calling a taxi for us... the situation was a bit "too much" for me because they have been using their kindness to make us book something we weren't sure we wanted... After this experience we decided not to extend our stay for a night more in the city of Viñales.
I took the guide and saw that there was a bus trip organized by the tourism office of the city going to Cayo Levisa. As Doria was really tired, with Julien we caught the moment to go for a drink in the center and check where the office is located.
While walking we realized that in all the city there were a lot of available rooms in the casas much more closer to the downtown and that it was not totally necessary to have a booking before reaching our next stop.
The life of the small towns in Cuba seem to turn around the main square where you can find wifi, Viñales wasn't an exception. We reached the downtown after 10-15min walking on streets where the public lights were almost not existing hopefully Julien's phone had almost a car lighting and we managed to walk easily.
We also found the tourism office and a friendly Cuban guy suggested us to go there around 7h in the morning to book.
We then enjoyed a nice daiquiri while sitting on the main square's banches and listening to the life music. We then came back home and went to bed. As I was the one who wakes up easily in the morning I decided to go to the office at 7h30 to book the trip and said to Julien and Doria to meet me at 8h30 at the square.
2nd of May
I managed to reached the square however there were not available seats for the Cayo Levisa... quite sad! It was the second lesson of the trip: when you arrive first go to the office to book before going for an activity. Anyway, the only solution we had then was the collective taxi which could make the trip to this island much more expensive than we thought. At 8h30, I met Julien and Doria and we sat down to look for a solution... we decided to go back to the office and check for another trip... Cayo Jutias has been mentioned as a nice alternative. We went at the office and luckily some guys have just cancelled their trip to there which made available two seats in a car and another one in another car... well we went for it.
With Julien we shared the front seats of a nice huge American car: Plymouth from 48. We were 9 people inside including the driver... the road wasn't good at all but the view was amazing. It took us an hour and a half to reach the beach... the driver dropped us on the beach in the middle of coconut trees ... the mosquitos were everywhere such as they have been expecting us, however the beach looked awesome with a nice sand and a water which was having all the possible colors of bleue. We spent more than 5h on the beach... this place has also been offering really nice pictures spots.
During the stay we also started to think where to go the next day... we really wanted to go to Maria La Gorda which is a really nice beach and a diving spot totally in the south from Viñales, however except by taxi there was not another transportation available which could make it difficult to bargain... After checking in the guides we thought that the city of Cienfuegos (not in the agenda in the beginning) was a nice option as there was a bus from Viñales going there and the city was located on equidistant to the Pigs Bay (also a famous diving spot) and to Trinidad, a city we really wanted to visit anyway. Nevertheless the trip from Maria La Gorda, would have been even longer to reach Trinidad and much more expensive.
I managed to reached the square however there were not available seats for the Cayo Levisa... quite sad! It was the second lesson of the trip: when you arrive first go to the office to book before going for an activity. Anyway, the only solution we had then was the collective taxi which could make the trip to this island much more expensive than we thought. At 8h30, I met Julien and Doria and we sat down to look for a solution... we decided to go back to the office and check for another trip... Cayo Jutias has been mentioned as a nice alternative. We went at the office and luckily some guys have just cancelled their trip to there which made available two seats in a car and another one in another car... well we went for it.
With Julien we shared the front seats of a nice huge American car: Plymouth from 48. We were 9 people inside including the driver... the road wasn't good at all but the view was amazing. It took us an hour and a half to reach the beach... the driver dropped us on the beach in the middle of coconut trees ... the mosquitos were everywhere such as they have been expecting us, however the beach looked awesome with a nice sand and a water which was having all the possible colors of bleue. We spent more than 5h on the beach... this place has also been offering really nice pictures spots.
During the stay we also started to think where to go the next day... we really wanted to go to Maria La Gorda which is a really nice beach and a diving spot totally in the south from Viñales, however except by taxi there was not another transportation available which could make it difficult to bargain... After checking in the guides we thought that the city of Cienfuegos (not in the agenda in the beginning) was a nice option as there was a bus from Viñales going there and the city was located on equidistant to the Pigs Bay (also a famous diving spot) and to Trinidad, a city we really wanted to visit anyway. Nevertheless the trip from Maria La Gorda, would have been even longer to reach Trinidad and much more expensive.
We came back around 18h30 in Viñales and ran to the ticket office to buy bus tickets.once the mission completed we went for a drink and then for a diner in the bar restaurant La Plaza Café where we went to last night with Julien to get our drinks from. One more time the cocktails were amazing as well as the lobster. Even if I am not a big seafood amateur I enjoy every single moment of this meal. Really delicious.
As the bus was leaving at 7am and we needed to be at the station at 6h30 in the morning, we came back home, packed our luggage and relaxed to get ready for the 6h ride to Cienfuegos the next day.
As the bus was leaving at 7am and we needed to be at the station at 6h30 in the morning, we came back home, packed our luggage and relaxed to get ready for the 6h ride to Cienfuegos the next day.