17th -20th of January 2018
Introduction:
This trip has several first times:
Everything started by a promotion mail that I received about Transavia flights in mid December 2017. It didn't take me long to react and tried convincing people to go to Marrakech: my sister and Benoit were the ones motivated. In the end the dates were better matching my sister's.
Before going I have been asking several people about suggestions: The plan was made after a mix of recommandations of my sister, a moroccan colleague of mine, a French one and the Lonely Planet. We right away agreed to stay in a Riad so the trip could start.
17th of January
I was so happy and excited to go to Marrakech because of the bad weather in Paris but also because I really needed some rest and I knew that seeing my sister would recharge my batteries.
First impressions:
I met my sister at Mehdia Riad (the one we had booked) as she had arrived a bit earlier. Here again the hosts were very nice, helpful and kind... I already started to love the country! The Riad was really charming with typical Moroccan art and furniture. Our room was located on the 3rd floor on the terrace which was offering an excellent view over the city and the Atlas. The trip couldn't start any better.
After checking-in and my first mint tea, the visits could start. It was already dark and of course our first destination was the main square Djemaa El-Fna. The downtown is keeping the ancient atmosphere of the city where a lot of people (tourists and locals) walk on the small stone streets surrounded by charming handcraft shops (selling paintings, leather bags, lamps, souvenirs, tea...) or restaurants from which every sellers is inviting you to get in to have a look and assuring you giving the best price. In the middle of this human traffic there are no cars but motorcycles which are the kings of the roads and are everywhere around. The only way to survive is keeping your right and being aware of the horns. A similar feeling I had when arrived in India several years ago.
We reached the square which was getting increasingly crowded with tourists and locals. It could be divided in 4 different landscapes:
We went for a walk around the square but in less than 3 minutes a lady had already taken my sister's hand to draw a henna tattoo.
As it was still early, we decided to go to the mosque. It was less crowded which allowed us to walk freely around. We reached the Lalla Hasna parc which was located right behind the mosque and has been offering excellent shots of the mosque combined with two illuminated fountains.
We went back to the square where we decided to stop for a bite. The restaurant area is like a marketplace where sellers are charming the tourists to get in. We finally sat down at number 117 (yes, sometimes I am surprised remembering those numbers) where we had a meal for 4 (yes, often you overestimate yourself when travelling...) mainly with meat sticks. Gosh, the lamp ones were so delicious and very similar to the ones I have tried in Hohhot (Inner Mongolia).
We finished the night by getting a nice mint tea on the terrace of restaurant located on the street of our Riad: La Porte du Monde.
This trip has several first times:
- first time in Africa
- first time in Marrakech and Morocco
- first time, if my memory is not wrong, going abroad only with my sister. A moment of privilege I can say because we usually meet with part of the family. Well this time only both of us.
Everything started by a promotion mail that I received about Transavia flights in mid December 2017. It didn't take me long to react and tried convincing people to go to Marrakech: my sister and Benoit were the ones motivated. In the end the dates were better matching my sister's.
Before going I have been asking several people about suggestions: The plan was made after a mix of recommandations of my sister, a moroccan colleague of mine, a French one and the Lonely Planet. We right away agreed to stay in a Riad so the trip could start.
17th of January
I was so happy and excited to go to Marrakech because of the bad weather in Paris but also because I really needed some rest and I knew that seeing my sister would recharge my batteries.
First impressions:
- We landed at the new terminal of Marrakech's airport which looks awesome! Offering a great view over the snowy Atlas.
- The funny part came right after I got out from the plane. We needed to walk from the plane to the terminal, well even if there was a clear line to walk into nobody was respecting it such as people are afraid of respecting lines: a sign of the Moroccan people's freedom of choosing their own paths:).
- A taxi driver was waiting for me outside. Usually when you meet the first driver you can make yourself an idea about the people too, well here I can only say that I was extremely surprised. Indeed, the driver was kind, nice, helpful but moreover a safe driver compared to the traffic.
- The buildings aren't tall but each one was painted in pink, confirming the reputation of Marrakech as "the pink city".
I met my sister at Mehdia Riad (the one we had booked) as she had arrived a bit earlier. Here again the hosts were very nice, helpful and kind... I already started to love the country! The Riad was really charming with typical Moroccan art and furniture. Our room was located on the 3rd floor on the terrace which was offering an excellent view over the city and the Atlas. The trip couldn't start any better.
After checking-in and my first mint tea, the visits could start. It was already dark and of course our first destination was the main square Djemaa El-Fna. The downtown is keeping the ancient atmosphere of the city where a lot of people (tourists and locals) walk on the small stone streets surrounded by charming handcraft shops (selling paintings, leather bags, lamps, souvenirs, tea...) or restaurants from which every sellers is inviting you to get in to have a look and assuring you giving the best price. In the middle of this human traffic there are no cars but motorcycles which are the kings of the roads and are everywhere around. The only way to survive is keeping your right and being aware of the horns. A similar feeling I had when arrived in India several years ago.
We reached the square which was getting increasingly crowded with tourists and locals. It could be divided in 4 different landscapes:
- the juice sellers,
- the souvenirs shops,
- the music players
- and of course the restaurant part.
We went for a walk around the square but in less than 3 minutes a lady had already taken my sister's hand to draw a henna tattoo.
As it was still early, we decided to go to the mosque. It was less crowded which allowed us to walk freely around. We reached the Lalla Hasna parc which was located right behind the mosque and has been offering excellent shots of the mosque combined with two illuminated fountains.
We went back to the square where we decided to stop for a bite. The restaurant area is like a marketplace where sellers are charming the tourists to get in. We finally sat down at number 117 (yes, sometimes I am surprised remembering those numbers) where we had a meal for 4 (yes, often you overestimate yourself when travelling...) mainly with meat sticks. Gosh, the lamp ones were so delicious and very similar to the ones I have tried in Hohhot (Inner Mongolia).
We finished the night by getting a nice mint tea on the terrace of restaurant located on the street of our Riad: La Porte du Monde.
18th of January 2017
After a nice sleep and an excellent breakfast including a delicious eggplant jam, our day could start.
We decided to go first to Dar Si Said and then try the half day trip suggested by the Lonely Planet.
Dar Si Said: the Moroccan Arts museum was really impressive. It has been offering an awesome mix of mosaics. The whole garden was covered with a beautiful bleu and white tiles, wooden finitions on the doors and windows. Once inside the museum we were astonished again by the work done on the walls, the floor and the ceiling. It is curious but this museum, like the most of museums we have visited in Marrakech, aren't showing a lot of home furniture. Indeed, it seems like all the Moroccan art is located on ceramic and wood handworks.
Right after our Lonely Planet half day trip could start. First stop the Djemaa El-Fna square from where we got into the souq (a closed marketplace - Bazaar, very similar to what you can see in Istanbul). Well this one was bigger than I could ever imagine, a really huge thing which could also be qualified as a labyrinth. Here again the souq has been preserving its authenticity and the sellers were inviting to get into their shops trying to sell you something. The souq can easily be divided in different sections:
Time has come to rethink our day: we decided to go to the Jardins Majorelle where Yves Saint Laurent used to imagine, inspire and create new collections, and then go back to the Medina to finish the rest of the monuments mentioned in our Lonely Planet trip.
Before going we stopped at the square again where berbers (the people from the mountains) where playing music with snakes surrounding them, just like in the movies. Of course the ones you see first are the standing cobras and secondly the deserts vipers which seemed innocent compared to the cobras. Gosh i hate snakes and seeing the cobras standing tall and ready to attack was freaking me out. It didn't look like this for the Berber who was allowing himself touching and playing with them... Although our fear we did some pictures... of course.
We then grabbed a tuk-tuk which dropped us at the Jardins Majorelle which are located outside of the Medina (i.e. Out of the city walls). It seems that this district is the new cosy place of the area as the buildings were all new and some of them were offering a view over the gardens.
Jardins Majorelle: this is a magnificent piece of art! The gardens are preserving more than 300 species of plants which you can admire walking on narrow paths. I was really impressed by:
Right after the gardens we decided to walk back to the city as the distance seemed fine. There were few things left: Ali-Ben Youssef Madersa and the Mouassine fountains.
We first arrived at the Mouassine fountains which except the wooden roof which is old didn't impress me a lot. It was quite dirty such as people were respecting the their heritage. The district of the city is also famous for the hammams and the oldest one is Mouassine Hammam which has been existing since several centuries. The hammam was separated between men and women.
We approached the Ali-Ben Youssef madersa but it was unfortunately closed for the next two years for renovation... too bad! It was already the late afternoon and we haven't eaten anything since we left the Riad in the morning. We found a nice rooftop terrace just next to the mosque Ali Ben Youssef where we enjoyed an amazing tajine, couscous, mint tea and 360 view over the city.
Another famous place to go was the Mellah district (the Jewish district) especially famous for the colorful spices and tea shops. This was our last tourist destination for the day.
Mellah was located not far from our Riad and to avoid passing by the souq again we did a bit longer tour which allowed to see the daily life of the people out of the tourist areas. For sure Moroccans are the people who like being out to do their shopping or just sitting there and admiring the people passing in the street while enjoying a mint tea.
The Mellah district was again a covered market place but much smaller. Even before getting in you can smell the mixed perfumes of tea and spices. We stopped in the middle next to an old man shop who explained us a lot about the tea and the benefits about each ingredient he was selling.
This is where we bought our mint tea, jasmins balls and cinnamon.
Our last stops were:
After a nice sleep and an excellent breakfast including a delicious eggplant jam, our day could start.
We decided to go first to Dar Si Said and then try the half day trip suggested by the Lonely Planet.
Dar Si Said: the Moroccan Arts museum was really impressive. It has been offering an awesome mix of mosaics. The whole garden was covered with a beautiful bleu and white tiles, wooden finitions on the doors and windows. Once inside the museum we were astonished again by the work done on the walls, the floor and the ceiling. It is curious but this museum, like the most of museums we have visited in Marrakech, aren't showing a lot of home furniture. Indeed, it seems like all the Moroccan art is located on ceramic and wood handworks.
Right after our Lonely Planet half day trip could start. First stop the Djemaa El-Fna square from where we got into the souq (a closed marketplace - Bazaar, very similar to what you can see in Istanbul). Well this one was bigger than I could ever imagine, a really huge thing which could also be qualified as a labyrinth. Here again the souq has been preserving its authenticity and the sellers were inviting to get into their shops trying to sell you something. The souq can easily be divided in different sections:
- souvenirs,
- fruit and meat,
- wooden handcrafts, leather goods - especially bags, shoes, wool clothes... There were several workshops you can see people working.
Time has come to rethink our day: we decided to go to the Jardins Majorelle where Yves Saint Laurent used to imagine, inspire and create new collections, and then go back to the Medina to finish the rest of the monuments mentioned in our Lonely Planet trip.
Before going we stopped at the square again where berbers (the people from the mountains) where playing music with snakes surrounding them, just like in the movies. Of course the ones you see first are the standing cobras and secondly the deserts vipers which seemed innocent compared to the cobras. Gosh i hate snakes and seeing the cobras standing tall and ready to attack was freaking me out. It didn't look like this for the Berber who was allowing himself touching and playing with them... Although our fear we did some pictures... of course.
We then grabbed a tuk-tuk which dropped us at the Jardins Majorelle which are located outside of the Medina (i.e. Out of the city walls). It seems that this district is the new cosy place of the area as the buildings were all new and some of them were offering a view over the gardens.
Jardins Majorelle: this is a magnificent piece of art! The gardens are preserving more than 300 species of plants which you can admire walking on narrow paths. I was really impressed by:
- the number and the form of the cactuses,
- the calm inside compared to the crowded city,
- the colors chosen inside (bleu, white and yellow buildings and fountains).
- I can totally understand YSL choosing this place to create. Impressive gardens !
Right after the gardens we decided to walk back to the city as the distance seemed fine. There were few things left: Ali-Ben Youssef Madersa and the Mouassine fountains.
We first arrived at the Mouassine fountains which except the wooden roof which is old didn't impress me a lot. It was quite dirty such as people were respecting the their heritage. The district of the city is also famous for the hammams and the oldest one is Mouassine Hammam which has been existing since several centuries. The hammam was separated between men and women.
We approached the Ali-Ben Youssef madersa but it was unfortunately closed for the next two years for renovation... too bad! It was already the late afternoon and we haven't eaten anything since we left the Riad in the morning. We found a nice rooftop terrace just next to the mosque Ali Ben Youssef where we enjoyed an amazing tajine, couscous, mint tea and 360 view over the city.
Another famous place to go was the Mellah district (the Jewish district) especially famous for the colorful spices and tea shops. This was our last tourist destination for the day.
Mellah was located not far from our Riad and to avoid passing by the souq again we did a bit longer tour which allowed to see the daily life of the people out of the tourist areas. For sure Moroccans are the people who like being out to do their shopping or just sitting there and admiring the people passing in the street while enjoying a mint tea.
The Mellah district was again a covered market place but much smaller. Even before getting in you can smell the mixed perfumes of tea and spices. We stopped in the middle next to an old man shop who explained us a lot about the tea and the benefits about each ingredient he was selling.
This is where we bought our mint tea, jasmins balls and cinnamon.
Our last stops were:
- the tourist agency to check options for the next day. We had the choice between going to the Atlas or to the Palmeraie. After discussing with the owner he suggested us to check the Bahia palace and the Badi Palace in the morning in Marrakech and then go to the Palmeraie. So we did.
- We also took some time to get some souvenirs and we finished our journey with a mint tea at the terrace down of our Riad: La porte du monde.
19th of January
Again a great breakfast! We had a meeting at 2pm at the agency so we needed to hurry in order to visit the both palaces.
We first started by the Bahia palace. As it was still early we were some of the few visitors inside which was definitely great for pictures. Well the palace is a great piece of work, again the beauty can be found on the floor, walls and windows. After checking, the Bahia palace has been built for 14 years by the top artisans... well great job !!!
The main ceramic garden was used for dancing or receiving events and was clearly impressive by its size. Moreover the lights penetrating in the different compartiments of the palace and the orange trees were giving an additional charms.
We then headed to the Badi Palace which, on my opinion was even more impressive. Indeed, it is an old terracotta masterpiece mosque, almost destroyed by the time. For me it was looking a piece which got out of a Nat Geo movie.
The gardens were offering several pools and a lot of mandarin trees. Moreover on top of the wall and the roofs left, there were stork nests.
We finished about 1pm so we walked slowly around the main square and stopped for our traditional mint tea before going to ride camels at the Palmeraie.
The Palmeraie is located 20/25km away from Marrakech. The area had become the fanciest place around Marrakech. Indeed, between the red "terre" and the palm trees there were several huge villas built (often belonging to famous people, like the president of Gabon...)
After a 30min ride we stopped where our camels were relaxing. We got dressed in bleue dress and white turbans, and we got on Madona and Victoria's backs (the names our guide has given to two the camels).
The feeling being again on a camel was great! It reminded me my ride at Dunhuang in the Gobi desert.
This time the ride was a bit longer (around 45min) and made us discover the landscapes: the palm trees, the mountain in the background and of course the huge villas. Indeed, I am kind of afraid that this piece of land will someday disappear leaving place for this fancy houses and will loose the charms it used to have. In any case this ride was a great escape from the noise in the city.
We came back at the main square an hour before the sunset and as the weather was great we stopped at a rooftop coffee for a drink but especially to enjoy the beautiful sunset which was happening behind the mosque Koutoubia.
We finally went for a dinner at number 117 in the market where we ate the first night. We were the first foreigners and were used as an argument to get other tourist sitting down. Indeed, the bill arrived only after there were already at least 10 people sitting around :).
Of course our night finished at La Porte du Monde before going to bed.
Again a great breakfast! We had a meeting at 2pm at the agency so we needed to hurry in order to visit the both palaces.
We first started by the Bahia palace. As it was still early we were some of the few visitors inside which was definitely great for pictures. Well the palace is a great piece of work, again the beauty can be found on the floor, walls and windows. After checking, the Bahia palace has been built for 14 years by the top artisans... well great job !!!
The main ceramic garden was used for dancing or receiving events and was clearly impressive by its size. Moreover the lights penetrating in the different compartiments of the palace and the orange trees were giving an additional charms.
We then headed to the Badi Palace which, on my opinion was even more impressive. Indeed, it is an old terracotta masterpiece mosque, almost destroyed by the time. For me it was looking a piece which got out of a Nat Geo movie.
The gardens were offering several pools and a lot of mandarin trees. Moreover on top of the wall and the roofs left, there were stork nests.
We finished about 1pm so we walked slowly around the main square and stopped for our traditional mint tea before going to ride camels at the Palmeraie.
The Palmeraie is located 20/25km away from Marrakech. The area had become the fanciest place around Marrakech. Indeed, between the red "terre" and the palm trees there were several huge villas built (often belonging to famous people, like the president of Gabon...)
After a 30min ride we stopped where our camels were relaxing. We got dressed in bleue dress and white turbans, and we got on Madona and Victoria's backs (the names our guide has given to two the camels).
The feeling being again on a camel was great! It reminded me my ride at Dunhuang in the Gobi desert.
This time the ride was a bit longer (around 45min) and made us discover the landscapes: the palm trees, the mountain in the background and of course the huge villas. Indeed, I am kind of afraid that this piece of land will someday disappear leaving place for this fancy houses and will loose the charms it used to have. In any case this ride was a great escape from the noise in the city.
We came back at the main square an hour before the sunset and as the weather was great we stopped at a rooftop coffee for a drink but especially to enjoy the beautiful sunset which was happening behind the mosque Koutoubia.
We finally went for a dinner at number 117 in the market where we ate the first night. We were the first foreigners and were used as an argument to get other tourist sitting down. Indeed, the bill arrived only after there were already at least 10 people sitting around :).
Of course our night finished at La Porte du Monde before going to bed.
20th of January
I wanted to see the sunrise so I woke up at 7h15. Indeed, our terrace was offering and excellent view over the city and the Atlas and the sun was about to rise right behind the mountain. Really great moment of peace where the street lights give path to the sun light and city wakes up.
We then got ready, went for breakfast (damn, the sweet potato jam was great!) and went for a small walk before my sister's departure.
At this moment I still had 4h before going to the airport. So I followed a colleague of mine recommandation: going to the Royal Monsour hotel. Indeed, the place is famous for the artisanal Riads built inside showing again the great work of the Moroccan artisans. She had told me to go there for a mint tea and ask if it is possible to visit one Riad.
When I checked its location on Google, the price per night appeared: 1 061€... I couldn't imagine how much the tea would cost... well anyway, I went there and I think I was the only one who got in from the parking entrance to the Palace entrance walking... i was surrounded by the last models of Land Rover and Mercedes.
I arrived at the reception where the manager was standing and as suggested I asked for a visit and of course for a mint tea. He was kind enough to tell me that he would double check if it is possible while I am drinking my tea in the garden next to the swimming pool.
As the weather was great I was feeling fabulous sitting on the sofa, drinking my tea (served with a lot of sweet peanuts) and enjoying the sun. After an hour I went back to the reception where the manager with a big smile offered me a free tour explaining me a lot about the concept of this palace: everything was turned around the discretion.
After this beautiful visit I went back home where I managed to enjoy one last time the mint tea in our traditional restaurant and to admire the snowy Atlas.
I wanted to see the sunrise so I woke up at 7h15. Indeed, our terrace was offering and excellent view over the city and the Atlas and the sun was about to rise right behind the mountain. Really great moment of peace where the street lights give path to the sun light and city wakes up.
We then got ready, went for breakfast (damn, the sweet potato jam was great!) and went for a small walk before my sister's departure.
At this moment I still had 4h before going to the airport. So I followed a colleague of mine recommandation: going to the Royal Monsour hotel. Indeed, the place is famous for the artisanal Riads built inside showing again the great work of the Moroccan artisans. She had told me to go there for a mint tea and ask if it is possible to visit one Riad.
When I checked its location on Google, the price per night appeared: 1 061€... I couldn't imagine how much the tea would cost... well anyway, I went there and I think I was the only one who got in from the parking entrance to the Palace entrance walking... i was surrounded by the last models of Land Rover and Mercedes.
I arrived at the reception where the manager was standing and as suggested I asked for a visit and of course for a mint tea. He was kind enough to tell me that he would double check if it is possible while I am drinking my tea in the garden next to the swimming pool.
As the weather was great I was feeling fabulous sitting on the sofa, drinking my tea (served with a lot of sweet peanuts) and enjoying the sun. After an hour I went back to the reception where the manager with a big smile offered me a free tour explaining me a lot about the concept of this palace: everything was turned around the discretion.
- There are no employees on the paths in the gardens which were leading to the Riads so that the guest may feel like home. The employees were using underground path to reach each Riad.
- There were several type of Riads (with one or several bedrooms). We visited the smallest one: 140m2 and 3 floors... I think we don't have the same vision about small things... Meanwhile, the manager explained me the concept of the Riad:
- First floor the patio and the living room are (just like it used to be for the Moroccan people) reserved for the guest's friends. A special door was giving an independent access in the kitchen of the room service via the underground paths.
- Second floor is reeves for the close family and was offering a magnificent woodcraft bedroom with a huge bathroom and two very beautiful dressings. Here again a special door was offering a room service directly on the floor.
- The third floor was giving access to the terrace which is reserved to the family members (in the Moroccan tradition).
After this beautiful visit I went back home where I managed to enjoy one last time the mint tea in our traditional restaurant and to admire the snowy Atlas.
In conclusion,
I am so happy I managed to do this trip with my sister in such a beautiful place. My trips in Africa couldn't start any better!
Indeed, the kindness of the Moroccan people, the noisy streets, the spicy flavors, the mint tea will stay in my mind until next time :). Chukran Morocco !
I am so happy I managed to do this trip with my sister in such a beautiful place. My trips in Africa couldn't start any better!
Indeed, the kindness of the Moroccan people, the noisy streets, the spicy flavors, the mint tea will stay in my mind until next time :). Chukran Morocco !